Seasonal Cooking with Rita Calvert~The Local Cook
This week we're bringing you an etra-special treat from guest blogger, Julie Qiu. Creating your own oyster fest (it is called Oyster Roast in North Carolina) is fascinating as Julie leads the way-giving you techniques, recipes and resources. Many thanks to our own Tommy Leggett for leading me to this fabulous treatise on oysters. Tommy is a Chesapeake local who owns Chessie Seafood and Aquafarms, grows York River Oysters(Trademarked). He also works as a fisheries scientist for The Chesapeake Bay Foundation.
We all love to order raw oysters when we are dining out, but have you ever considered bringing the half shell experience back home? It’s surprisingly easy, affordable, and fun! I will explain how.
STEP 1: BUY THE OYSTERS
I must have gotten my taste for oysters from my parents, because they love them as well. The last time when we all got together, we went out for oysters in their area. For my mom’s birthday this year I wanted to do things a little bit differently; I wanted to bring the oyster bar experience to them and into their home. So I ordered four dozen York River Oysters from Tommy Leggett and had them delivered to their doorstep in (the middle of nowhere) Connecticut.
STEP 2: GATHER THE EQUIPMENT
You don’t need to be equipped with much to enjoy raw oysters, but it’s important to be safe and use the right tools. All you need to be is:
- An oyster knife - not to be confused with a clam knife or kitchen knife, santoku knife, butter knife, etc.
- Some form of hand protection – kitchen towel or shucking glove (Some guys are even
cockyconfident enough to shuck barehanded, but I consider that to be a risky proposition.)
As an elegant alternative to a wearing clunky glove, consider the Littledeer Half Sheller (the maplewood egg-shaped board as shown above). I love using this shucking board to stabilize the shell and collect any runaway juices. It’s a must-have for the at-home shucker. Also doubles as an oyster coaster. Win!
If you’re looking to make a good presentation, you’ll also need:
- Crushed ice or rock salt – to place the oysters over
- Deep plate, platter or pan – to place the oysters in
- Trash bag or a natural body of water – to discard the shells
- Condiments – lemon wedges, lime wedges, mignonette sauce, freshly ground pepper
I brought my trusty oyster knife (Dexter-Russell Sani-Safe 4 Inch Oyster Knife), glove (Kevlar-coated, but I still managed to puncture it once), and Half Sheller with me for the occasion. Charlie Williams of BBQ Oyster Grill also graciously expedited over one of his fantastic oyster grilling racks for us to experiment with.
So now with all of my equipment and oysters ready at hand, it was now time to start shucking!
STEP 3: SHUCKING THE OYSTERS
When they proclaimed, “The world is your oyster,” they forgot to disclaim, “if you know how to shuck.” Once you learn how to shuck them, the doors to enjoying fresher, cheaper oysters will open easily for you. In reality, if you want to savor them raw and intact without paying a restaurant premium, you must shuck them yourself.
How much of a premium do restaurants charge for shucking, you wonder? Well, take the York River Oyster for example.Aquagrill in NYC charges $2.15 per piece for them, whereas I bought them for about $1 per piece (and that’s mostly the cost of shipping!). $0.25-$1.00 per piece is the range of fees for having someone else shuck them for you.
Now probably having shucked well over 500 pieces in the last two years, I can tell you that it gets easier with practice. I’m no expert, but I can hold my own. If you stick to the right size and shape of shell, the activity is reasonably easy–even fun! I won’t go into details about how to shuck in this article, but will send you off with this set of instructional YouTube videos.
A few practical tips to make the shucking experience run smoother:
- Make sure to have a platter of ice near you to transfer the opened oysters to.
- Have a clean towel on hand to wipe off mud or shell bits.
- Plan your oyster to plate ratio ahead of time so you don’t run out of display space.
I learned how to shuck oysters from Chef Laurence Edelman (of Left Bank, formerly of The Mermaid Inn) and have been passing down that knowledge to anyone who asks. I even taught my dad how to open them, and being the skillful engineer that he is, he immediately got the hang of it. My mom hanged back and just enjoyed the fruits of our labor.
STEP 4: PREP THE CONDIMENTS
I’m a naked kind of girl. As in I like to eat my oysters without any condiments at all. My parents like a little lemon on theirs, so that’s what we did. On occasion I enjoy drizzling a little bit of spicy and tart mignonette on top to liven them up.
Here are some tasty mignonette recipes to try out:
- Classic Mignonette – Food Republic
- Champagne Cucumber Mignonette – Food52
- Rosé Mignonette – Food & Win
- Highlands Mignonette – SAVEUR
- Tequila Lime Mignonette – ECSGA
- Pomegranate Mignonette – Tastespotting
By now you should be enjoying the oysters.
The York River Oysters were fantastically plump, buttery and simply beautiful to look at. They are grown by Tommy Leggett and his crew in the lower York River at York Town, near the Chesapeake Bay. The liquor was mildly briny and the chewy meat possessed a clean aftertaste. The white bellies were mildly sweet and delivered a depth of flavor that is unique for Virginia oysters. My mom, who is usually picky about her seafood (she’s quite sensitive to “fishiness”) claimed that she could taste the freshness.
The four of us slurped up half a dozen each in no time at all.
Amidst the oyster bellies, we found a few stowaways.
A few of the oysters had “cute” little translucent oyster crabs hidden inside. By the way, this is completely normal. They are simply using the oyster for protection and help themselves to the oyster’s food, but they don’t gnaw at the mollusk themselves. Back in the day, these little critters were considered to be a delicacy among epicureans. Despite being a little freaky looking, they’re quite tame. They can barely lift their little legs. Bryan had the guts to eat one alive. I don’t know why I couldn’t bring myself to do it. I’ve definitely consumed more adventurous things before… like live (moving) octopus.
STEP 5: FIRING UP THE GRILL
It’s not over yet! I purposefully saved the biggest and most formidable oysters for last — to grill. Given their size (4+ inches), they would do well barbecued or oven-roasted. I couldn’t wait to try out the BBQ Oyster Grill rack. It’s a simple and efficient sheet of perforated, accordion-bent steel that allows for the oyster to be held upright no matter what the shell is like. I tried a combination of cooking them on the half shell and also leaving them completely closed. After a few minutes on the fire, they popped open with ease.
I can’t even imagine how grilling without this rack would work. On a flat or even grated surface, the oysters would most likely tip over and spill its juices. I suppose you could always make a ghetto rack out of aluminum foil, but who really has the time? This was definitely the way to go.
With grilling comes a whole new set of sauces and recipes. Hot sauce is a trusted standby, but I would highly recommend experimenting with others. I created a savory garlic butter sauce for our batch. The next time around, I’d opt for bolder concoction for this kind of oyster.
Here are some great BBQ oyster sauces to try:
- Kind of Complicated Grilled Oyster Sauce – Emeril Lagasse
- Variety of Sauces for BBQ Oysters – Various Authors
- Buttery BBQ Sauce – Bill Whitbeck
- Grilled Oyster Shooters – N1COLE
Naturally, the final family verdict on this seafood treat was a unanimous thumbs up! For more photos, check out Julie's Flickr gallery.